SV3D — ERIX MODULAR PC CASE

Build Guide

v1.0

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What You'll Need

HARDWARE
  • ×8 10×2mm Neodymium Magnets
  • ×13 M3×6mm Hex Screws
  • ×13 M3×8mm Hex Screws
  • ×24 M3×5×4mm Brass Heat Set Inserts
CABLES & COMPONENTS
  • ×1 PC Power Switch Cable (ATX)
  • ×1 Dual USB Female to Motherboard Cable
TOOLS
  • M3 Hex Screwdriver or Bit
  • Soldering Iron with Heat Set Tip
  • CA Glue (or equivalent)
PRINTED PARTS
  • ×1 Body
  • ×1 Base
  • ×1 Top
  • ×1 PSU Door
  • ×4 Feet
  • ×1 Fan Contour
  • ×2 Handles
  • ×1 Power Button
  • ×1 PCI Rear Bracket
  • ×1 Magnetic Faceplate

Recommended Settings

Tested in Orca & Bambu slicers. PLA+ minimum — anything with a softening temp below 60°C will deform under load.

MATERIAL
PLA+ or stronger
LAYER HEIGHT
0.20 mm
WALL LOOPS
3
INFILL
8% minimum
INFILL PATTERN
Grid
SUPPORTS
Normal / Snug
BRIM
No-brim
PURGE
Into objects' support
⚠ BAMBU PRINTERS — 256×256mm BED (X1C, P1S, P1P, A1)

Some parts go right to the edge of the print bed. The default machine G-code "L" purge line will collide with your print. Create a new machine preset to disable it.

  1. Open Bambu Studio → Prepare tab → click Edit on your printer (top left)
  2. From the dropdown, select your matching nozzle size from System Presets
  3. Go to the Machine G-code tab
  4. In the Machine Start G-code box, find the section labelled ;nozzle load line
  5. Add a semicolon to the start of any line containing G1 E... to comment it out — e.g. G1 E50 F200;G1 E50 F200
  6. Check for a second extrusion line ~4 lines below and comment that out too
  7. Save the preset with a new name, e.g. Bambu Lab P1S — No L Line

Step-by-Step Assembly

Step 1 — Base heat-set inserts
STEP 01 / 07

Base — Heat-Set Inserts

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: Base
  • Brass Heat Set Inserts ×8
TOOLS
  • Soldering iron with heat-set tip (do not exceed 200°C)
  1. Place the 8 inserts into the designated slots on the Base as shown.
  2. Use a soldering iron to press each heat-set insert firmly into place.
  3. Ensure all inserts sit flush with the surface of the Base.
Step 2 — Feet installation
STEP 02 / 07

Feet Installation

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: Feet ×4
  • M3×6mm Hex Screws ×4
TOOLS
  • M3 Hex Screwdriver or Bit (hand-tighten only, no drill)
  1. Insert an M3×6mm screw through the bottom-side hole of a printed foot.
  2. Thread the screw into the heat-set insert installed in the previous step.
  3. Hand-tighten only. Repeat for all 4 feet.
Do not over-tighten — excess torque can displace the insert or crack the plastic.
Step 3 — Body heat-set inserts
STEP 03 / 07

Body — Heat-Set Inserts

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: Body
  • Brass Heat Set Inserts ×10
TOOLS
  • Soldering iron with heat-set tip (do not exceed 200°C)
  1. Install 6 inserts into the Motherboard-side slots of the Body.
  2. Install 4 inserts into the Top-side slots of the Body.
  3. Press each flush using the soldering iron.
The 4 top inserts must sit completely flush. If any excess plastic protrudes after cooling, trim with flat snippers or re-heat and push flush. This is critical for the Top to seat correctly.
Step 4 — Handles and PSU Door heat-set inserts
STEP 04 / 07

Handles & PSU Door — Heat-Set Inserts

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: Handles ×2, PSU Door
  • Brass Heat Set Inserts ×6
TOOLS
  • Soldering iron with heat-set tip (do not exceed 200°C)
  1. Install 2 inserts into each Handle (4 total).
  2. Install 2 inserts into the PSU Door inner wall slots.
  3. Press each flush using the soldering iron.
Step 5 — Electrical and base assembly
STEP 05 / 07

Electrical & Base Assembly

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: Base, Feet (from prior steps), Body, Power Button
  • M3×8mm Hex Screws ×3
  • M3×6mm Hex Screws ×1
  • Dual USB Female Adapter ×1
  • ATX Power Cord ×1
  • CA Glue (optional)
TOOLS
  • M3 Hex Screwdriver or Bit (hand-tighten only)
  1. Insert the Dual USB Female Adapter into its designated slots on the Base. Optional: apply a drop of CA glue under the port if it's loose.
  2. Insert the ATX Power Cord into its slot on the Base and route the wire beneath the USB cable.
  3. Align and press the Power Button onto the ATX Power Cord.
  4. Align the Body to the Base screw holes and hand-tighten the M3 screws. The single M3×6mm screw goes into the recessed hole near the vent; all others are M3×8mm.
Do not over-tighten — excess torque can displace inserts or crack the plastic.
Step 6 — Top assembly
STEP 06 / 07

Top Assembly

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: Handles, PSU Door, Fan Contour, Top
  • M3×8mm Hex Screws ×10
TOOLS
  • M3 Hex Screwdriver or Bit (hand-tighten only)
  1. Place the Fan Contour into its slot on the Top as shown.
  2. Slot the PSU Door (flat side down) into the hinge slots. The door is only removable when fully open — insert it open, then close.
  3. Attach the Handles to the Top with 4 M3×8mm screws. Top should be flat side down.
  4. With the PSU Door open, slide the Top into place. The GPU intake fins should face the Motherboard side. A lip slots in at the top center.
  5. Once seated, fasten the Top to the Body with the remaining 6 M3×8mm screws.
Some minor flex in the Body before the Top is secured is expected. If the Top won't slide into place, verify all top-side heat-set inserts are fully flush. Trim or re-seat any that protrude.
Step 7 — PCI bracket, magnets, and faceplate
STEP 07 / 07

PCI Bracket, Magnets & Faceplate

PARTS THIS STEP
  • Printed: PCI Rear Bracket, Magnetic Faceplate
  • Brass Heat Set Inserts ×2
  • 10×2mm Neodymium Magnets ×8
  • CA Glue
TOOLS
  • Soldering iron with heat-set tip (do not exceed 200°C)
  1. Install the 2 heat-set inserts into the PCI Bracket slots and press flush.
  2. After installing your PCIe cards, slot the PCI Bracket into the rear mounting holes and fasten with 2 M3×6mm screws. Hand-tighten only.
  3. Note magnet polarity before gluing. Bond 4 magnets to the Body corners and 4 magnets to the Faceplate corners using CA Glue. Ensure opposing magnets attract.
  4. Allow the glue to fully cure before regular use.
  5. Snap the Magnetic Faceplate into place by aligning all 4 corner magnets.
Double-check polarity before gluing. Reversing a magnet after curing requires mechanical removal and risks breaking the print.